During the last
weekend I went out Climbing in Koh Yao Noi with my friend Max but since
this was his very first time on rock the plan was to keep it as the Thais say
Sabai Sabai…
The first
day we went to The Big Tree were we set up a few routes and later we moved to
the HD Wall to climb some classic climbs. After we came at our bungalow I
realized how easily I climbed those lines so in the night I started thinking
about a route I had always seen, but never tried before…White Rice!
White Rice
is a 7b located at the extreme right of the Dump Wall, right behind the corner
of The Bea Wall. The route was bolted by Mark Miner in 2009 and I believe that
since then not many climbers have repeated it…that’s why it inspires me, it
looks untouched and only a few chalk-marks are visible.
The route
it’s about 25m long. It starts with an easy overhang but in between the
second and the third bolt there is already the crux which consist in taking with
the left hand a distant sloppy 2 fingers hole while blocking with the right
hang a good under-clean, twist entirely the body stay in balance, release the
good hold and reach another distant 3 finger under-clean pocket with the
right hand. Once this is taken, you need to quickly up your feet on some really
sloppy footholds and grab with the right hand a relatively good border.
Once the
move it’s complete, you can eventually clip the 3rd quick-draw.
Scaring…
After this
part there are around 5 meters of a quite easy session in a pumpy overhang.
From here there is a full rest and after that there is a second hard session that
goes from a balancing move on sloppy feet to a powerful pull and hill-hook to a
good hole, from here you can clip, manage to get some energy back and prepare
for the last s movement on a very vertical wall with sloppy holes up to the
anchor, around 6 meters from here. This session is not even that hard, but coming from a consistent overhang with pumped
harms, and balancing up to a vertical wall having not really good holds doesn’t
make the entire thing so easy…
On day two
I managed to find all the sequence, but I haven’t done any real attempt yet. Unfortunately
this crag stays on shade only until 12h00 therefore time is limited…anyhow I
will try my best on my next visit.
The
climbing season has officially started…!
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| amazing off-road drive through the rubber plantations |
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| White Rice, 7b - Dump Wall Koh Yao Noi |