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22 April, 2013

Climbing in Koh Yao Noi: back again...


Climbing in Koh Yao Noi is definitely becoming a weekend routine now!

We went there during Songkran holiday together with our friends Eric and Jenny and we came back again last Saturday evening to spend a full Sunday of climbing together with Minx and Kafill.

During the last two trips we have extensively climbed at the Bee Wall which has shown to be great even under heavy rains, the Dump Wall where we climbed an amazing 6b+ characterized by two huge stalactites, and spent long afternoons at the HD Wall which stay on shade from 12am on ward and it’s easily reachable walking till the end of the beach, tide permitting.

I would like to report also the presence of a very inspiring boulder right on the middle of the beach. I saw that rock before but I never understood its line until yesterday after having noticed some marks of chalk on it I have started figuring out some movements.

Here below a short video and some pictures. 






Eric on the good holds of Leaping Lizard 6b at Bee Wall, Koh Yao Noi


Riccardo on the crux of Golden Flakes 6c at Bee Wall, Koh Yao Noi


Supranee May on the red holds of HD Wall 5b, Koh Yao noi

17 April, 2013

Climbing in Railay – The climbing mecca


I went to Tonsai beach for the first time in my life in October 2009 accompanied by my Thai friend Saran following the intrepid footprints of a Sardinian climbing myth, Enzo Lecis.

I remember we couldn't climb for the first two days due to the heavy rain however the rest of the stay was just amazing.

A few weeks ago, after almost 4 years, I decided it was time to go back to this corner of world and since I was travelling with my girlfriend I decided to head to Railay instead seeking for easy routes.

What I have learned from this trip it’s quite easy: do not go to 1,2,3 Wall or Muai Thai Wall! A shopping mall during X-Mas holiday is surely less crowded!
This part of the peninsula has become the head quarter of all the climbing schools of area offering climbing services from sunrise to sunset seven days a week. 

If you really want to climb in this area you better wake up very early!
Considering I planned to stay in Railay only one day I was quite disappointed, but still we didn't give up and we headed to the Diamond Cave North Face.

Even though also this spot was monopolized by a climbing school, we were lucky enough to find right behind the corner 4 untouched lines: 6a+/6b/6b+/6c
All the routes were very well protected with titanium bolds or treads and the anchors were also set up with titanium bolds. The rock was great as usual and in particular the 6b was just amazing.

What else can I say? I will surely come back, however do not go to 1,2,3 Wall or Muai Thai Wall!