I went to Tonsai beach for the first time in my life in
October 2009 accompanied by my Thai friend Saran following the intrepid
footprints of a Sardinian climbing myth, Enzo Lecis.
I remember we couldn't climb for the first two days due to
the heavy rain however the rest of the stay was just amazing.
A few weeks ago, after almost 4 years, I decided it was time
to go back to this corner of world and since I was travelling with my
girlfriend I decided to head to Railay instead seeking for easy routes.
What I have learned from this trip it’s quite easy: do not
go to 1,2,3 Wall or Muai Thai Wall! A shopping mall during X-Mas holiday is
surely less crowded!
This part of the peninsula has become the head quarter of
all the climbing schools of area offering climbing services from sunrise to
sunset seven days a week.
If you really want to climb in this area you better
wake up very early!
Considering I planned to stay in Railay only one day I was
quite disappointed, but still we didn't give up and we headed to the Diamond Cave
North Face.
Even though also this spot was monopolized by a climbing
school, we were lucky enough to find right behind the corner 4 untouched lines:
6a+/6b/6b+/6c
All the routes were very well protected with titanium bolds
or treads and the anchors were also set up with titanium bolds. The rock was
great as usual and in particular the 6b was just amazing.
What else can I say? I will surely come back, however do not
go to 1,2,3 Wall or Muai Thai Wall!
