The very last time I went there, my climbing partner Supranee
May was just a novice and she didn’t even manage to reach the anchor of Ego
Free Zone 6a+ top ropping the route.
After one year of extensive climbing all around Railay,
Tonsai and Koh Yao Noi we eventually decided to come back to this spot both to
celebrate one year of climbing together, and both to test our improvements.
The result was brilliant and unexpected!
On the first day Supranee easily sent Ego Free Zone, on the second day she managed to flash an amazing 6b
called Devil’s back bone and not
satisfied enough she sent her first 6b On Sight Exfoliation. Eventually on the third morning she even managed to try
on lead her first 6c Pil Box discovering
a new dimension and pushing her limit forward. Impressive!
On my side, when we arrived at the crag I was immediately flashed
by the white color of a beautiful steep vertical short wall on which there is
an intimidating route called Tripping,
7b+.
It was love at first sight. Coming down from a 6b I stopped
to touch the holds…it looked simply impossible. I tried to figure out a
possible sequence but it looked brutal hard and I was about to give up.
The route is divided in three parts, a delicate start with a
positive angle, a steep vertical white wall with just 7 hard movements, and a
final part on a classic tufa composition. The beginning and the end of the
route are around 6b/6b+ while the central part is the real beast.
When I started figuring out the movements another local
climber discouraged me suggesting not losing time trying the route because
conditions were not good. It was indeed very humid and those little holds looked
impossible to take, however I was already committed and I pushed forward.
On day two, after having spotted all the movements and
finally having completed the brutal sequence on top rope I decided it was time
to add an important date on my climbing records.
After a sleepless night were I was virtually climbing the
route the whole night, I came back to the crag and after having set up all the
quick draws and accurately clean up all the most important holds I managed to
easily send the route.
Tripping is the hardest
route I have ever sent, all my gratitude goes to Supranee for her belay and for
the motivation she constantly injects me!
What’s next?
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| Tripping 7b+ - Spirit Mountain, Chong Plee, Ao Nang |
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| Supranee May - after sending Don't tell my mum 6b in KYN |